Dover to Deal, 14 Sep
ELEVEN MILES. This iconic walk over the White Cliffs of Dover used to appear on the Morley Ramblers programme, but it has not been featured for many, many years. The biggest change during this time is the rail fare. You may wish to check the price of the ticket in advance. But by bringing sandwiches and plenty of drink, it is still less expensive than a day out in London.
Trains: London St Pancras 09.07, Stratford International 9.14, arr Dover Priory 10.13. Buy a return ticket to Deal. The freedom pass is not valid on the high speed train, but the senior railcard is. I will be taking this train. The train on the recce had 6 carriages. I would advise sitting in carriage 3 from the end, near one of the doors to arrive opposite the loos, and avoid a long queue.
There are alternative trains, which are slower but (only slightly) cheaper: Victoria 08.10, Bromley South 8.26, arr Dover Priory 10.09. OR Charing Cross 8.04, arr Dover Priory 9.55. These options will accept the freedom pass, but when I queried the cost of a return from Deal, there was very little difference in the fare, and a return journey without involving a transfer onto the high speed train seems complicated and a very long return journey. If you choose this option, please investigate your return journey times without involving the high speed train.
The walk: When we arrive at Dover, if the queues at the loos are too long, we should skip them. We leave the station and begin our walk through part of the town onto a very busy road with huge lorries rumbling past on their way to the port. Then we leave the main road and there is one very steep climb up to the White Cliffs.
National Trust café – This is a quick stop for loos and a view over the very busy port of Dover, and back towards the castle. It is not a coffee stop. We then take the higher path to the light house.
South Foreland Lighthouse and Mrs Knott’s tea room. This is another quick stop for loos and a view. It is not a coffee stop. However, if any one decides they wish to stay and take the 45mins tour of the light house, the remainder of the route is fairly straightforward. Just keep the sea to your right (south)
On a clear day, we may be able to make out the white cliffs of France.
Lunch: St Margaret’s Bay, Picnic lunch – benches on the seafront. The Coast Guard pub for quick drink and loos. It is from this beach that the channel swimmers start from – it is narrowest point between England and France. At the far end of the beach is a former home of Sir Ian Fleming who bought the home from Noel Coward.
Afternoon walk: We leave the beach and take another long steep flight of stairs back up to the cliff and then begin a gentle downhill towards Kingsdown beach. The last section of the walk is long and flat. Interesting homes on one side and wild native flora the other.
The return high speed trains are hourly. If we miss a train we may have time for refreshments at a seaside café.
The virtues If good weather, wonderful land and sea views to France. And watching the huge ferries approaching Dover. And fresh air.
The risks.
2 very steep staircase climbs
Keep well in along the pavement for the unpleasant, but relatively short walk alongside the lorries on their way to Dover Port.
Keep well away from the edge of the cliffs.
There are no obvious drop out points.
Once we reach the flat part, anyone who does not wish to finish the walk, either drop out at Walmer and find the way to the railway station, or call for a taxi.
It will be a long day – 11 miles. On the recce, we reached Deal at 5 pm so we were in good time for the hourly direct train back. But I cannot promise the same on the day of the walk. Any questions, please ring Patricia or email walks@morleyramblers.uk.